2017 E5 walk, day 5: Lestrevet to Sainte-Marie-du-Ménez-Hom
I followed the trail a little further up the coast, to Pentrez-Plage, and then turned off the GR 34 and onto the GR 37. The GR 37 runs basically the length of Brittany, winding from here at the coast to the base of the peninsula to the east. It was to be the main trail I’d follow for the next several weeks. I got some bread from the Bar de la Mer and some fruit from the little market outside, said farewell to the coast, and headed inland.
The trail took me gradually uphill; my plan for the day was to reach the peak of Ménez Hom, the local mountain (1000′ above sea level), and then continue down the north side.
The trail had other ideas, however. The map showed it heading more or less straight up the western slope, but the posted trail markings instead had the trail turning south and winding around the mountain.1 Again I briefly pondered ignoring the markings and following the map, but again common sense told me no: Maybe the old trail crossed land where hiking wasn’t permitted; maybe conditions were hazardous. Looking at the map, I guessed roughly where the reroute would have me go — a smaller, local trail that wound around and came up the mountain from the east — decided that would be okay, and continued.
As with the reroute three days before on the GR 34, this day’s detour took me past a striking site, this time a dolmen.
I started to notice my right ankle hurting a bit as I trudged uphill, especially on paved roads like the one leading into the tiny village of Sainte-Marie-du-Ménez-Hom, where a web search suggested there was a hotel. I checked out the amazing chapel first, and then discovered that the hotel, Gîtes du Ménez Hom, not only existed but also was open.
Once again the owner was a little nonplussed at an unannounced traveler, but she gave me a room. I took my time unpacking and letting my tent dry out from the previous night’s dew, crossed the street (limping slightly) to the Crêperie Skeud An Amzer, and turned in early.