2017 E5 walk, day 15: Glomel to Gouarec
I don’t have specific memories of this night, but in general, I usually slept lightly when I was camping. The mattress and pillow were comfortable for their weight, but obviously not as comfortable as my bed back home, or even (most) beds along the walk. Fortunately, I rarely had trouble getting to sleep, or back to sleep, and rarely needed to spring awake and get walking first thing in the morning.
For the entire length of the walk, I rarely broke camp in less than one hour. This frustrated me for a while, until I just got accustomed to it. And it wasn’t unreasonable, considering I was getting dressed, packing the things from inside my tent in a particular manner, disassembling and packing the tent, brushing teeth, and refilling my water sack.
The GR 37 had skipped a stretch of the canal on its way to Glomel, but I was back to the canal by 10:30 AM.
Some of the lockkeepers’ houses have been turned into vacation rentals, such as the one at écluse 155, Pont Yannic.1 This sounds like a fabulous idea to me.
By noon, the trail had left the canal again. I veered off the trail to the town of Rostrenen for lunch.
The GR 37 then joined up with a cycling trail. Called voies vertes (greenways), these cycling trails are scattered across France. This one (and another I walked on later) appeared to be on the route of a former rail line; the trail was wide, flat, and paved with packed gravel. It was efficient, probably a dream for cyclists, and … honestly, pretty boring to walk on.
After some time, the trail crossed under a highway and entered the town of Gouarec, my destination for the evening, back once again on the canal.
The campsite, Camping de Gouarec, was on the canal, separated from town by a narrow channel such that it was its own little island. It was owned by a British man who drove around the field in an old Citroën 2CV to collect payment and meet the guests. The other nearby camper was a man from Jersey who’d been cycling the voie verte, and had several days left before he had to be back at the ferry to go back home.