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2017 E5 walk, day 30: Dinan to le Minihic-sur-Rance
48°27′41.7″N
48°34′37.8″N
The day’s walk was relatively uneventful, following the GR 34C north down the Rance. Almost immediately downstream from Dinan, the Rance widened and began meandering a little more.
The trail was right alongside the Rance for most of the day, though it occasionally veered inland, to cross a stream or perhaps avoid a rocky promontory.
The biggest such detour was around the town of le Port Saint-Hubert, where the riverside was very steep and a highway crossed the river.
My destination was in the town of le Minihic-sur-Rance: a gîte that was effectively a large bedroom with several beds for guests, on the upper floor of the home. It was election day, and when I arrived, Chantal, the owner, was heading out to vote. When she returned, we talked politics for a while; she was very anxious about the election and the prospect of a right-wing president, which I could sympathize with.1
I cooked my simple dinner of pasta with cheese and salami. Chantal commented on its austerity, and I’m now reminded of a bit from Craig Mod’s article about his own long walk in Japan:
About a week into the walk, I told an old woman about my schedule and she asked me, “Is this an ascetic practice?” I laughed in the moment, but then for weeks as I walked, I turned her question over and over in my mind.
Late in the evening, an old friend of Chantal’s arrived from a writer’s retreat in a lighthouse in the west of Brittany (possibly the résidence d’écrivain d’Ouessant?). Of course, I was on my American/walker’s hours, and so turned in early while they stayed up late to catch up.
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A running sub-theme of this trip was people basically asking me “what the hell happened over there?”, and me apologizing on behalf of the country. ↩︎