2017 E5 walk, day 4: Douarnenez to Lestrevet
Before leaving Douarnenez, I had a lovely breakfast at the chambres d’hôtes. I then stopped at the Boulangerie de l’Yser1 for a large loaf of bread and some pastries, and a little later stopped at the town market. There, I took a lesson from the previous day and stocked up on more food, sufficient for about three days, which I used as a model for the rest of the walk. For lunches, I got salami and cheese; for snacking, I got a couple apples and bananas, trail mix, and a chocolate bar. (The salami and cheese could also go into dried pasta I bought to cook for dinner when necessary.) I topped off this supply whenever I passed a market or grocery store, and never found myself undernourished again.
This day felt significantly different from the previous ones. Most importantly, the day was mostly flat — or at least it felt that way. The previous two days averaged the equivalent of 395 floors (climbed and descended) per day; this day counted only 221, and it felt like fewer.2
Immediately east of town, I came across the ruins of a Roman-era sardine processing factory, for making garum, so I stopped for a few minutes and looked around.
The coast and trail turned north, running along the end of the bay. I actually walked along sandy beaches for the first time (which made me a little anxious — I did not want sand in my shoes to make my new blisters any worse). I stopped for lunch near a calvaire (a calvary, an outdoor crucifix) on a short bluff above the sand.
After setting up the tent, I walked back down the road to Le Grand Bleu, a little restaurant I’d seen on the way, and had a very pleasant dinner. My eating schedule was early even for an American, to say nothing of the French, so I was alone when I started eating. This was typical for my entire walk.
The sun was setting as I got back to my tent.
The way my phone measures climbing and descending seems to require something resembling actual flights of stairs; a gradual slope won’t count, no matter how many feet it ends up ascending or descending. ↩︎