2017 E5 walk, day 33: Pointe du Grouin to Mont-Dol
I left the campsite by the gate I entered, directly onto the trail. It wound along the cliffs, occasionally dropping down to a small cove or such, heading basically south to the town of Cancale.
I stopped in Cancale for some bureaucracy: At this point, my plan was still to walk the entire length of the E5, so I needed a long-stay visa (as opposed to the simple 90-day visas that are granted without fuss to tourists). I needed to make some photocopies and drop off some paperwork at the post office; alas, the library, my go-to photocopy site, wasn’t open, so I went to the presse (a small newspaper/magazine/book shop) instead. I stopped in the main plaza for groceries, and then for bread and pastries at le Fournil de Cyrille, before returning to the trail.
South of Cancale, the trail soon dropped down to the shore1 and stayed there for most of the rest of the day. It passed along the waterfronts of a small town, Saint-Benoit-des-Ondes, where I bought an Orangina as a rare treat (the day was warm), and various little villages and clusters of buildings.
Shortly after the village of Hirel, the trail turned inland towards the towering spire of Mont Dol, in whose shadow I planned to camp for the night.
Mont Dol was a steep but brief climb, with what was, sincerely, an amazing view from the top.
Down the other side of the hill, I left the trail and wound around to the east side, through the imaginatively-named village of Mont-Dol, to Camping au Mont-Dol. There, with donkeys in the nearby field, I slept well.
Along the shore south of Cancale, there were several restaurants and stands selling oysters, a local specialty. I’m allergic to crustaceans, but knowing I’d be passing through this area that specializes in mollusks, I got tested before I left (eating a small bowl of mussels while at the allergist’s office, EpiPen at the ready), and found I wasn’t allergic. And then I got to Cancale and … they just didn’t sound appealing. Sorry, Cancale; maybe I’ll try your oysters next time. ↩︎